Dimensions of Diversity
On harmony, depth of Japanese sound expressions, Melaka and the legacy of Diplomat Zheng He
The omotenashi culture in Japan is unparalleled. I got spoiled living with the constant bowing and elevated aisatsu greetings.
The art of anticipation in Japan or kikubari (valuing social harmony 和) is expressed in diverse ways. Highly refined and hyper detailed.
During this trip back to Malaysia, I sometimes find myself at odds being the one taking the initiative to say thank you to service staff!
I find that the concept of ‘diversity’ can be expressed and understood very differently across country contexts.
In Japan, diversity is expressed through practices, processes, and social structures - centering on harmony and its ethnic homogeneity.
In Malaysia, we think of intercultural, multicultural diversity - reflecting its complex, heterogeneous tapestry influenced by historical migrations.
In Japan, diversity is drilled down vertically with deep focus into one specific domain. If I’m not mistaken, the Urasenke school of Japanese tea ceremony has close to 30 temae variations (and this is just the beginner level) for its tea serving procedures done indoors and outdoors, adjusted based on seasons and occasions. And who knew, Nissin has introduced over 150 flavors - delighting fans with a wide variety of cup noodles to tease their adventurous tastebuds.
Whereas in Malaysia, diversity pans out broadly, expressed across ethnic/ cultural intersections between Malays, Chinese, Indians, indigenous populations, and our colonial ancestries.
Malaysia is a melting pot of cultures, seamlessly reflected in architectures, languages, cuisines, traditions, and everyday life. Malaysia Truly Asia, the travel tagline introduced in 1999.
Language
Pic: My daughters and diversity of colors @ Malaqa House Museum antique house, Melaka
Japanese: Internal diversity
Recently with the use of Google Lens’ translator, my daughter and I managed to tackle her Japanese school holiday homework.
That is - until we reach the onomatopoeia section! Sound words that just cannot be translated. Japanese language has plenty of those which is pretty fascinating.
A diverse set of Japanese sound words (some with subtle differences) are categorized into 5 main groups to describe sounds of:
Animals and humans,
Nature and inanimate,
Conditions and states,
Movements and motions,
Feelings.
ばらばら Bara bara = Heavy rain drops
ざーざー Zaa zaa = Heavy, continuous pouring rain
ごろごろ Goro goro = Thunder rumbling
のーのー Noo noo = Enjoying yourself without caring about what's around you.
うっとり Uttori = Fascinated by something beautiful
Overall, Japanese language has a rich variety of regional dialects and variations depending on the social hierarchies between speakers.
Chinese script was imported to become today’s kanji. Complimented by phonetic scripts of katakana and hiragana.
Multilingual Malaysia
Malaysia’s multilingual landscape is comprised of Bahasa Malaysia (Melayu), English, Mandarin and the various Chinese dialects, Tamil, indigenous languages.
See also Tai Tales’ latest post.
Despite having stronger affinity with the English language (I largely think and dream in English), I am grateful to my parents for sending me to Chinese vernacular public schools in Malaysia all the way through to high school.
Owing to that, I am now able to access, communicate, and rub elbows with different kinds of people in Bahasa, English, Chinese (and understand some of the cultural nuances and roots).
I have now come to appreciate the foresight of my ethnic Chinese immigrant fore-fathers. For their impressive feat and political influence of incorporating Chinese vernacular schools into the national education system in Malaysia.
Outside of China, Malaysia is the only country with a complete Chinese education system from primary to higher education.
Unlike Singapore, where Chinese is only a language subject, Malaysia's government supports and approves comprehensive Chinese education throughout the country - the only country to do so in Southeast Asia.
Food
Nyonya pie tee, Melaka
Hainanese chicken rice balls, Melaka
During this trip to Melaka (a UNESCO World Heritage City), we tasted Hainanese chicken rice balls that the city is synonymous with, a legacy of its Chinese heritage (rice are rolled into balls as it’s easier for working farmers/ fishermen those days to eat without utensils).
The famous Jonker Street night market, in Melaka’s Chinatown, bombards visitors with a bustling selection of fried ice cream, curry fish balls, skewered meats dipped in spices, oysters, egg and durian tarts, traditional nyonya kuih.
Peranakan culture emerged from the intermarriage between Chinese immigrants and local Malay communities in the former Straits Settlements (Melaka, Penang, and Singapore). The men are called Baba. Women are known as Nyonya.
Vendors selling everything under the sun from clothes, electronics, jewelry, accessories, trinkets, to fake tattoos. I see stalls with an eclectic selection of tea utensils, antiques, and Pu’er cakes.
Streets lined with historical houses on both sides.
Neon lights, the loud chattering, savory smell of satay sauce intermingling with the foul smell of bad drainage - a cacophonous of sights, sounds, smell to behold.
Religion and Architecture
Pic: 青雲亭 Cheng Hoon Teng in Melaka. Malaysia’s oldest Chinese temple (Year 1645).
In Melaka, the A Famosa Fort comes to mind, remnants of the Portuguese’ colonization.
We hear Muslim prayers and come across to multiple Chinese-style mosques. Some of the oldest Hindu temples are in Melaka.
We see churches, cathedrals, and colonial houses from the Portuguese, Dutch, British eras.
We visited Cheng Hoon Teng, Malaysia’s oldest functioning temple dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy (观音 guan yin), based on Buddhism, Confucianism, and Taoism.
It is also known as the 'Merciful Cloud Temple' or 'The Temple of Green Cloud' located in Harmony Street with engravings on the front entrance:
竹院青雲报平安。莲开六甲滋雨露。Green lotus blooms on Buddhist land, rain from the cloud nourishes all living thing.
Dutch-style Protestant Church
‘Chinese Columbus’ Zheng He
@Encore Melaka. A 360 degrees rotating performing arts theater
In our current world full of conflict (latest being the unrest in Bangladesh), Confucian spirit of 以和为贵 yi he wei gui or importance of harmony in all matters is an apt reminder to us all.
To establish trade relations, Admiral Zheng He 郑和 (also known as Cheng Ho or San Bao 三宝) led 7 Ming Dynasty’s expeditions to South China Sea and the Indian Ocean (6 of which included Melaka).
This happened a century before the era of European colonialism, first led by the Portuguese explorer, Vasco Da Gama, changing the course of global history.
Born in 1405 to a Muslim family (Hui ethnic minority) in Yunnan, Admiral Zheng He built mosques during his voyages.
As a Muslim, he is also known for his diverse religious and cultural attitude. He was reportedly a Buddhist who practiced Confucius teachings, and worshipped Mazu 媽祖, a popular Taoist and Chinese Buddhist’ Goddess of Sailors and Seafarers.
While there were accounts that he could be ruthless (invaded Sri Lanka during the Ming-Kotte War), Zheng He is largely known in Melaka as an Ambassador of Peace - leaving behind a legacy not tainted by colonization and exploitation as have other settlers.
Besides silk and porcelain, it is also believed that Diplomat Zheng He’s fleets spread tea culture, introducing tea during his maritime trade explorations. His crew drank green, oolong and red tea, carried in both leaf and cake form. Compressed dark fermented teas like Pu’er were also brought for long journeys.
Ming Dynasty tea wares from Admiral Zheng He’s fleet @ Cheng Ho’s Cultural Museum, Melaka